Wednesday 17 March 2010
Be all that you want to be!
With special thanks to Charlie K, Lajia, Wendy, Rachael, Lorraine, Jules, Tasha, Sarah, Pene, Peter, Jim, Stewart, Steve B, Steve W, Jason, Ben, and Charlie W. Happy memories, inspiring moments, but above all else, great friendship! Simon.
Friday 19 February 2010
Our Journey Home
Asleep in my tent, I suddenly became aware of a faint tapping on the flysheet, followed by the words in broken english, "dinner ready, get up please". Oh bugger off I thought to myself. With my usual body clock completely malfunctioning I had no real sense of time, just the half conscious awareness of the need to get off this mountain and head for the relative security and comforts of the Hotel Impala Bar!
In the end, the endless buzzing of activity outside brought me to my feet, and almost before I knew it, the endeavours of the previous 24 hours had been banished to the back of my brain as we prepared for our descent back to civilisation.
Mindful of the pain I felt at this stage last year, I was cautious not to expect too much from the subsequent journey down via the Mweke Route. In the end, both the afternoon trek and the following morning trek were accomplished with relative ease. Infact, the whole last 24hrs on Kilimanjaro was a very pleasant experience indeed. The cynic in me tells me not to read too much into the smiles and helpfullness of the porters, now we were reaching the point at which we decide just how much to tip them. The nameless faces, smiling at us all on our last day, is something you accept on a trip of this nature, and to be honest, on balance whatever we gave in terms of money and gifts, was pretty small beer to the effort both individually and collectively the whole of Tunzo's group had put in for us over the last week or so. Special mention should be made to our (nameless)cook (not unexpected many of you who know me will say), for conjouring up amazing meals with regular aplomb and in the most trying of conditions! Also John John, not yet a full guide, but still trying to qualify from his assistant guide status. His support for Lorraine through the week was steadfast and exemplary in its conduct. Right down to the moment she was picked up along with many others, by Tunzo on our final afternoon, he was by her side, carrying her bag and helping her back down the mountain. Fantastic.!!
As we gathered with the team to say thank you and hand over our tips, a strange sense of anticlimax seem to take hold. What is it about this place that sends a middle aged proffessional like myself back to experience its pleasures and hardships in equal measure for a second time in 12 months?? Last year it was easy. The challenge of climbing to just under 6000m and testing ones physical and mental limits in so doing were clear. This year however, for me, it was about everyone else and making sure they all exprienced the elation and satisfaction associated with a rewarding sense of achievement. Regardless of whether that's true for everyone on this trip remains to be seen. Summit night is a one off physical and above all mental challenge that I have yet to see its like. Perhaps that is why I return, and will continue to do so in the future, given the opportunity.
Our last two days in Tanzania were a mixture of the sublime and ridiculous! Supping 7.5% proof Guinness on our return back to the hotel was very definately sublime. Enjoying the company of our party celebrating on Saturday night, a real bonding moment for the group. Watching Jason give his moving speech about the group in his red underpants, very definately ridiculous, but at the same time highly emotionally charged! Dealing with the local authorities, police and hotelliers in sorting out Jules' lost passport, and spending Valentines Night with Stewart, surrounded by smartly dressed couples just typical of the need to put all first world, western mindsets to one side, and with a joyful sense of purpose, get on with stuff that needs to be done without ever worrying or waiting for things to be done as you would expect. This is Africa, and things will happen according to no specific timeframe or action. Just emerse yourself in it, and you will come out fine.
I learn't from Tunzo that the Masaai, cover their dead in butter fat and leave their bodies under a tree for the Hiyena's before moving on! The Circle of Life thus evolves and revolves around customs alien to ourselves here in the west. And yet this place is magical, touched by god in so many ways. I hope my colleagues on this trip, look back and reflect on their time favourably and with much gratitude to the people who helped them, the sites they observed, and the time they spent in the shadow of the Great White Mountain.
Thanks for reading!
Simon.
In the end, the endless buzzing of activity outside brought me to my feet, and almost before I knew it, the endeavours of the previous 24 hours had been banished to the back of my brain as we prepared for our descent back to civilisation.
Mindful of the pain I felt at this stage last year, I was cautious not to expect too much from the subsequent journey down via the Mweke Route. In the end, both the afternoon trek and the following morning trek were accomplished with relative ease. Infact, the whole last 24hrs on Kilimanjaro was a very pleasant experience indeed. The cynic in me tells me not to read too much into the smiles and helpfullness of the porters, now we were reaching the point at which we decide just how much to tip them. The nameless faces, smiling at us all on our last day, is something you accept on a trip of this nature, and to be honest, on balance whatever we gave in terms of money and gifts, was pretty small beer to the effort both individually and collectively the whole of Tunzo's group had put in for us over the last week or so. Special mention should be made to our (nameless)cook (not unexpected many of you who know me will say), for conjouring up amazing meals with regular aplomb and in the most trying of conditions! Also John John, not yet a full guide, but still trying to qualify from his assistant guide status. His support for Lorraine through the week was steadfast and exemplary in its conduct. Right down to the moment she was picked up along with many others, by Tunzo on our final afternoon, he was by her side, carrying her bag and helping her back down the mountain. Fantastic.!!
As we gathered with the team to say thank you and hand over our tips, a strange sense of anticlimax seem to take hold. What is it about this place that sends a middle aged proffessional like myself back to experience its pleasures and hardships in equal measure for a second time in 12 months?? Last year it was easy. The challenge of climbing to just under 6000m and testing ones physical and mental limits in so doing were clear. This year however, for me, it was about everyone else and making sure they all exprienced the elation and satisfaction associated with a rewarding sense of achievement. Regardless of whether that's true for everyone on this trip remains to be seen. Summit night is a one off physical and above all mental challenge that I have yet to see its like. Perhaps that is why I return, and will continue to do so in the future, given the opportunity.
Our last two days in Tanzania were a mixture of the sublime and ridiculous! Supping 7.5% proof Guinness on our return back to the hotel was very definately sublime. Enjoying the company of our party celebrating on Saturday night, a real bonding moment for the group. Watching Jason give his moving speech about the group in his red underpants, very definately ridiculous, but at the same time highly emotionally charged! Dealing with the local authorities, police and hotelliers in sorting out Jules' lost passport, and spending Valentines Night with Stewart, surrounded by smartly dressed couples just typical of the need to put all first world, western mindsets to one side, and with a joyful sense of purpose, get on with stuff that needs to be done without ever worrying or waiting for things to be done as you would expect. This is Africa, and things will happen according to no specific timeframe or action. Just emerse yourself in it, and you will come out fine.
I learn't from Tunzo that the Masaai, cover their dead in butter fat and leave their bodies under a tree for the Hiyena's before moving on! The Circle of Life thus evolves and revolves around customs alien to ourselves here in the west. And yet this place is magical, touched by god in so many ways. I hope my colleagues on this trip, look back and reflect on their time favourably and with much gratitude to the people who helped them, the sites they observed, and the time they spent in the shadow of the Great White Mountain.
Thanks for reading!
Simon.
Sunday 14 February 2010
Summit Night - Part 4
The journey back down from Stella Point was eased for me somewhat with Tunzo taking my backpack. I'd taken more than the normal amount of gear on this ascent, including an auxillary supply of supplementary oxygen, and the thought of carrying this down was not a pleasant one.
For the first time I was able to see the full extent of the journey I had made earlier, and bloody hell was it steep!!! Despite the exhaustion and obvious need to get down quickly, I remembered last years descent down the scree at Kibo in under 2 hours and the damage that had done to my legs. So despite wanting the relative comfort of my tent, I resolved to take it slowly this year, as we still had a 3 - 4 hour walk later in the day.
The mood was one of quiet satisfaction as I made my way down. I could see figures way off in the distance, but only caught up with two, Pene & Peter before finally reaching camp. Sarah was by now being carried down as our guides were sent back up the mountain to assist with bringing back the stragglers. It was well after 12pm when I finally crashed into my tent, too tired to eat, too exhausted even to take my boots off.
Sleep! that was all i needed!
For the first time I was able to see the full extent of the journey I had made earlier, and bloody hell was it steep!!! Despite the exhaustion and obvious need to get down quickly, I remembered last years descent down the scree at Kibo in under 2 hours and the damage that had done to my legs. So despite wanting the relative comfort of my tent, I resolved to take it slowly this year, as we still had a 3 - 4 hour walk later in the day.
The mood was one of quiet satisfaction as I made my way down. I could see figures way off in the distance, but only caught up with two, Pene & Peter before finally reaching camp. Sarah was by now being carried down as our guides were sent back up the mountain to assist with bringing back the stragglers. It was well after 12pm when I finally crashed into my tent, too tired to eat, too exhausted even to take my boots off.
Sleep! that was all i needed!
Summit Night - Part 3
The next two hours seemed to take forever as John John and I found different ways to pursuade Lorraine to keep going. Eventually and finally as the sun began to emerge gloriously behind us, the summit at Stella Point came into view. We were no morre than 200m from the top, but it might aswell have been 200 miles. I don't quite know how Lorraine managed to haul her body up those final few meters. It had taken her immense courage and determination just to get on this trip, and to reach base camp with the group was in itself an awesome acheivement. And yet here was a moment to possibly rival all these as she found the strength to haul her exhausted body up those final few meters to her crowning glory!
John John and I hugged each other and the three of us embraced at the top in one final congratulatory moment. After a few moments contemplation, John John invited me to go on, and with a final check on Lorraine, I stepped off on the final leg of my climb.
At first I moved brriskly, anxious to see who was ahead. By now the sun was fully up and i began to take account and remind myself of the beauty of this place. As I paused to catch my breath, I stared accross to the spectacular glacier covered in fresh snow, and turning, reflected on the crater below, its lunar landscape as spectacular as I remember it 12 months on.
Uhuru Peak I judged to be no more than 40 minutes away so I set off again hoping to catch some of the others who I assumed had by now reached the summit.
One of the first to pass me on their way back was Jules, who not 24hrs earlier had her ankle tightly bound after falling on the Baranco Wall. That was never likely to put off such a strong character as she, and so it had proved.
Then amidst so many special moments came one that I will particularly cherish. 12 months ago I watched as Charlie W had to give up about half way into his summit attempt, barely able to walk and struggling to see. Now, he strode towards me, elated but also in tears, informing me as we embraced that he'd seen just about everyone at the top. His joy was further elevated when i told him the news about Lorraine.
We deparrted reflecting on the group's acheivement, heading our seperate ways, but united in our joy and satisfaction.
As Uhuru moved ever more closer, I noticed two familiar figures ahead, one appearing to be struggling quite badly. After 15 minutes or so I finally caught up with Lajia and Charlie K, who was feeling the full extent of her efforts. I chattted with lajia as the summit finally came into view. I think it was Charlie who remarked on the symmetry of the three of us getting to the summit at the same time. I hadn't realised the added pressure I had brought on Charlie (who's husband Peter, so bravely made base camp last year), with the charitable bet I had had with Nigel (another from last years group), on which of us would reach the top first. This way all positions were satisfied as the three of us reached the summit at the same time. The time was apprroximately 7.45am, I had been climbing for nearly 10 hours, exhausted, but once again at the summit queueing with twenty or so others for our "Kodak moment" infront of the famous wooden sign.
We observed as first Peter, Pene, Steve, Rachael and Wendy had their moment individually and collectively with the CYM banner. Eventually the three of us remaining had our momentt as Tunzo organised our photo opportunity.
With some satisfaction, elation and pssibly a tinge of anti-climax that befits standing in front of the simple sign at Uhuru Peak, we posed for photo shots before moving off.
As the girls headed down i had a couple more shots I needed to get, so told Lajia and Charlie I would catch them up. In the end I didn't see them again until we were back at camp.
As I headed down from Uhuru to Stella, one final member of our group was making her way slowly up towards the peak. Keeping track of all the group's progress on summit night is almost impossible, but seeing sarah, striding purpousfully with Eddie (her porter) towards Uhuru, coughing relentlessly, but determined to have her moment, I rrealised that all of the grroup who had started out that night had reached the top. For Sarah, it was clearly a special acheivement and one she can be rightly proud of.
On getting back to Stella Point, I confirmed with Tunzo, that Sarah was the only one left on the summit ridge and resolved to wait for her there before heading back down myself. In truth I needed some time just to rest, knowing how gruelling the return leg would be. I didn't plan to fall asleep, but never the less I did!
I don't know how much time had passed but I stirred to find I was alone. I knew I couldn't have missed Sarah, but all the same thought i should check. A further 10 minutes or so passed before Tunzo, Eddie and Sarah merged into view and I finally prepared myself for the journey back to base camp.
John John and I hugged each other and the three of us embraced at the top in one final congratulatory moment. After a few moments contemplation, John John invited me to go on, and with a final check on Lorraine, I stepped off on the final leg of my climb.
At first I moved brriskly, anxious to see who was ahead. By now the sun was fully up and i began to take account and remind myself of the beauty of this place. As I paused to catch my breath, I stared accross to the spectacular glacier covered in fresh snow, and turning, reflected on the crater below, its lunar landscape as spectacular as I remember it 12 months on.
Uhuru Peak I judged to be no more than 40 minutes away so I set off again hoping to catch some of the others who I assumed had by now reached the summit.
One of the first to pass me on their way back was Jules, who not 24hrs earlier had her ankle tightly bound after falling on the Baranco Wall. That was never likely to put off such a strong character as she, and so it had proved.
Then amidst so many special moments came one that I will particularly cherish. 12 months ago I watched as Charlie W had to give up about half way into his summit attempt, barely able to walk and struggling to see. Now, he strode towards me, elated but also in tears, informing me as we embraced that he'd seen just about everyone at the top. His joy was further elevated when i told him the news about Lorraine.
We deparrted reflecting on the group's acheivement, heading our seperate ways, but united in our joy and satisfaction.
As Uhuru moved ever more closer, I noticed two familiar figures ahead, one appearing to be struggling quite badly. After 15 minutes or so I finally caught up with Lajia and Charlie K, who was feeling the full extent of her efforts. I chattted with lajia as the summit finally came into view. I think it was Charlie who remarked on the symmetry of the three of us getting to the summit at the same time. I hadn't realised the added pressure I had brought on Charlie (who's husband Peter, so bravely made base camp last year), with the charitable bet I had had with Nigel (another from last years group), on which of us would reach the top first. This way all positions were satisfied as the three of us reached the summit at the same time. The time was apprroximately 7.45am, I had been climbing for nearly 10 hours, exhausted, but once again at the summit queueing with twenty or so others for our "Kodak moment" infront of the famous wooden sign.
We observed as first Peter, Pene, Steve, Rachael and Wendy had their moment individually and collectively with the CYM banner. Eventually the three of us remaining had our momentt as Tunzo organised our photo opportunity.
With some satisfaction, elation and pssibly a tinge of anti-climax that befits standing in front of the simple sign at Uhuru Peak, we posed for photo shots before moving off.
As the girls headed down i had a couple more shots I needed to get, so told Lajia and Charlie I would catch them up. In the end I didn't see them again until we were back at camp.
As I headed down from Uhuru to Stella, one final member of our group was making her way slowly up towards the peak. Keeping track of all the group's progress on summit night is almost impossible, but seeing sarah, striding purpousfully with Eddie (her porter) towards Uhuru, coughing relentlessly, but determined to have her moment, I rrealised that all of the grroup who had started out that night had reached the top. For Sarah, it was clearly a special acheivement and one she can be rightly proud of.
On getting back to Stella Point, I confirmed with Tunzo, that Sarah was the only one left on the summit ridge and resolved to wait for her there before heading back down myself. In truth I needed some time just to rest, knowing how gruelling the return leg would be. I didn't plan to fall asleep, but never the less I did!
I don't know how much time had passed but I stirred to find I was alone. I knew I couldn't have missed Sarah, but all the same thought i should check. A further 10 minutes or so passed before Tunzo, Eddie and Sarah merged into view and I finally prepared myself for the journey back to base camp.
Summit Night Part 2
The plan for the night was for Lorraine, John John and myself to leave around 10.00pm with the others following in initially one group around 11.00pm. So it was around 9.30pm I found myself outside our mess tent eagerly waiting our departure as Lorraine made her final preparations and the others emerged for a small bite to eat and something to drink.
Finally, with little or no ceremony we slipped off into the night, anticipating the others departing around an hour or so behind us. The first hour and a half I was terrible, all over the place, struggling to plant my feet. If it wasn't for lorraine herself providing me with a figurative tow, I'm not sure just how much further I could have gone. This was unexpected, but I resolved to see it through, and so it was around 5000m my head began to clear and my sense of purpose return.
Lorraine all this time was amazing. She appeared strong and capable of virtually anything. Glancing back we could see the lights of others below, but still some considerable distance away, and after 3 hours it seemed we were making good progress. It had started to snow as we departed, and although this had now stopped the icy wind howling around us was beginning to bite hard. I became aware of the ice forming on my jacket and Lorraines water feed pipe froze so we reverted to her bottle supply.
Still no sign of the others!
Groups were finally begining to pass us on our way. Time had become irrelevant now, it was just a matter of getting Lorraine to the top as her fatigue began to hammer home.. The cold was now a real factor and unfortunately everytime we stopped the cold got worse. John John & I did our best to keep Lorraines spirits up, and in a practical sense I managed to give Lorraine my extra set of gloves and some buscuits for energy.
Just when we were starting to consider our options the first of our group, Stewart, Jim, Jules, Ben, Pete and Charlie W caught up with us. I think the fact this happened so deep into the climb acted as another spur for Lorraine and for the next hour or so as the others came and passed us, Lorraine found new strength.
We rested again in a narrrow passageway, crambed with other climbers. I saw Charlie K and Lajia huddled together not 3m's away sipping hot tea, and realised just how much this climb and the cold was taking out of all of us. These were the last two people from our group we would see for the rest of our climb!!
Finally, with little or no ceremony we slipped off into the night, anticipating the others departing around an hour or so behind us. The first hour and a half I was terrible, all over the place, struggling to plant my feet. If it wasn't for lorraine herself providing me with a figurative tow, I'm not sure just how much further I could have gone. This was unexpected, but I resolved to see it through, and so it was around 5000m my head began to clear and my sense of purpose return.
Lorraine all this time was amazing. She appeared strong and capable of virtually anything. Glancing back we could see the lights of others below, but still some considerable distance away, and after 3 hours it seemed we were making good progress. It had started to snow as we departed, and although this had now stopped the icy wind howling around us was beginning to bite hard. I became aware of the ice forming on my jacket and Lorraines water feed pipe froze so we reverted to her bottle supply.
Still no sign of the others!
Groups were finally begining to pass us on our way. Time had become irrelevant now, it was just a matter of getting Lorraine to the top as her fatigue began to hammer home.. The cold was now a real factor and unfortunately everytime we stopped the cold got worse. John John & I did our best to keep Lorraines spirits up, and in a practical sense I managed to give Lorraine my extra set of gloves and some buscuits for energy.
Just when we were starting to consider our options the first of our group, Stewart, Jim, Jules, Ben, Pete and Charlie W caught up with us. I think the fact this happened so deep into the climb acted as another spur for Lorraine and for the next hour or so as the others came and passed us, Lorraine found new strength.
We rested again in a narrrow passageway, crambed with other climbers. I saw Charlie K and Lajia huddled together not 3m's away sipping hot tea, and realised just how much this climb and the cold was taking out of all of us. These were the last two people from our group we would see for the rest of our climb!!
Summit Night - Part 1
Settling into our temporary home, our thoughts have now very clearly turned towards completing our task. Checking round the group on the whole we all seemed to be coping if a little preoccupied with the surroundings. At this altitude you find your own way to deal with the lack of oxygen. Some shut up shop altogether, others openly brave their obvious attempts to breathe more easily. Unfortunately there is always the possibility that the best medical advice demands that an individual descends, and so it was for my tent partner Steve B this evening. As we sat at dinner around 5pm, Stewart had the unwelcome task of explaining to Steve, that the fluid on his lungs required him to descend immediately. We have all dealt with the altitude in our own ways, but Steve more than most has suffered, and yet found the ability within himself to get to 4800m. He has shown immense resolve to get this far, but now even greater courage to accept the advice of our doctors. We said our emotional goodbyes almost before we realised what had happened. Hurriedly I packed away Steve's kit for him, and with a few tearful embraces he departed from our high altitude position for camp at a lower level.
Steve's departure, whilst a huge upset for all the group, has however helped us all focus clearly on just what we are about to undertake. If we needed any reminding of just how difficult this trek is, then Steve's untimely departure has said it all.
24 hrs ago I spoke with Tunzo about the strategy for getting us all to the top. Having completed the summit last year, experience led me to believe that although this is very much a personal challenge, when it comes to Summit Night, the support and encouragement of the friends around you is vital, and so it was, with Steve's departure I resolved even more to make sure Lorraine, atleast, had me aswell as her amazing guide John John to help her on her way. Knowing that the individuals in the main group itself would find ways between themselves to support each other I have seen supporting Lorraine as my main objective of the night.
Now clear in my purpose on this trip, I found sleep almost impossible, and so for the next couple of hours I pottered around my tent, preparing myself for the next installment of my Return to Kilimanjaro.
Steve's departure, whilst a huge upset for all the group, has however helped us all focus clearly on just what we are about to undertake. If we needed any reminding of just how difficult this trek is, then Steve's untimely departure has said it all.
24 hrs ago I spoke with Tunzo about the strategy for getting us all to the top. Having completed the summit last year, experience led me to believe that although this is very much a personal challenge, when it comes to Summit Night, the support and encouragement of the friends around you is vital, and so it was, with Steve's departure I resolved even more to make sure Lorraine, atleast, had me aswell as her amazing guide John John to help her on her way. Knowing that the individuals in the main group itself would find ways between themselves to support each other I have seen supporting Lorraine as my main objective of the night.
Now clear in my purpose on this trip, I found sleep almost impossible, and so for the next couple of hours I pottered around my tent, preparing myself for the next installment of my Return to Kilimanjaro.
Day 7 - Climb Day 5
This was the start of a momentous 24hrs for all of the group..
A shorter trek initially this morning as we headed towards our Summit Base Camp. We,ve finally settled into some sort of routine as a group, and the porters were particularly atttentive with hot water bowls and cups of tea this morning, which hasn't always been the case up to now.
Most of the group are OK, although Steve B is feeling the effects more than most.
Our morning trek took us to Barafu Huts, a steep climb preceeded by a gentle valley stroll. Lunch somewhat remarkably was prepared for us behind the main hut, and a more exposed spot you'd do well to find.
Still the warm pasta was very welcome, and certainly a source of energy we'd only truely appreciate later in the day..
We huuried down our offering as the wind whipped round our gathering, and not a moment too soon set off on our final steep walk to our base camp for the next few hours at 4800m.
A shorter trek initially this morning as we headed towards our Summit Base Camp. We,ve finally settled into some sort of routine as a group, and the porters were particularly atttentive with hot water bowls and cups of tea this morning, which hasn't always been the case up to now.
Most of the group are OK, although Steve B is feeling the effects more than most.
Our morning trek took us to Barafu Huts, a steep climb preceeded by a gentle valley stroll. Lunch somewhat remarkably was prepared for us behind the main hut, and a more exposed spot you'd do well to find.
Still the warm pasta was very welcome, and certainly a source of energy we'd only truely appreciate later in the day..
We huuried down our offering as the wind whipped round our gathering, and not a moment too soon set off on our final steep walk to our base camp for the next few hours at 4800m.
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